In my travels I eat in many strange, routine, delicious, filthy, crowded, empty, colourful, bland places. I’m going to begin listing the goof, the bad, the sickening and the moorish, together with the rude, the sensual, the exotic and the Formica. I rank service and atmosphere as important as food.
10 23rd, 2008
Malabar Junction, London
My search for the finest Indian restaurant in London has ended. It is without a shadow of doubt the subtly spiced and magnificent Malabar Junction in Great Russell Street. The setting is a high-ceilinged conservatory; the tables are well-spaced apart; the service is prompt with excellent £10 (US$20) bottles of house wine sold in the name of General Bilimoria, whose enobled son, Karan, runs Cobra Beer; and the food leaves you smoothly satisfied, as only well-prepared South Indian food can. It re-energises you without leaving the slightest trace of being too full.
The Breeze, Bangkok.
Probably the most exotic setting of any restaurant anywhere. High-rise rooftop bar, jazz band, panoramic views, room to wander, casual, expensive, atmosphere and service beats food. http://www.thedomebkk.com/web/corp_about.html
The Inn at Tough City
Totally, without doubt, the most incredible Japanese meal…and where is it, in Tofino, British Columbia, about the most remote place you’d expect a fully-aproned and bandanned Sushi artist behind the counter in a log cabin with views over an inlet that runs into the Pacific Ocean. They even serve Asahi extra dry. http://www.toughcity.com/
Indian — Bombay, Nottingham Vs Quilon, Buckingham Gate
By chance, I was able to compare the Bombay Indian Brassiere in Plains Rd, Nottingham to Quilon’s in Buckingham Gate, London. Bombay is wedged between Chinese takeaways and shopfronts to let, but inside the atmosphere is discreetly upmarket. With the staff decked out in flowing Mughal gowns, you could suddenly be walking into the Imperial Hotel in Delhi. Quilon’s is the south Indian cuisine of choice for ministers and royalty. But which is the better restaurant – a tough one. I’d pick neither for a special date. When it comes to good food for honest travellers, I’d opt for the Bombay because it serves real Popadoms. Quilon cuts them up fancy-like the size of crisps. Bombay, probably catering to more northern England tastes, uses creamier yoghurts that take longer to settle. The best Indian food used to be served by my very excellent and ebullient friend once Deputy High Commissioner to Britain. Alas, he was posted elsewhere — and the Star of Bengal in Leiston, Suffolk, is now closed down. God knows why, it was delicious. ¼/p>
