Before heading to New York, we dined at the Ognisko Polish Club at 55 Exhibition Road, London. I had never been before — although the club itself is a product of our Second World War alliance with Poland and stood as something of a b astion of Polish freedom during the Cold War. Its elegant high-ceilinged surrounds reflect that history.  Punctuated by vodka shots we shared dishes between nine among which were  Blinis with Smoked Salmon, Sevruga Caviar and Cream; Griddled Scallops and Lambs; Knuckle of Pork Bavarian Style (totally delicious and too much for one); Grilled Venison Loin with Red Currant and Juniper Berry Sauce; and for our vegetarian guest Penne Pasta with Aubergine, Feta and Pine Nuts. 

www.ognisko.com  

Two superb, but totally different restaurants in Glasgow.  The first I stumbled upon because the Blythswood Square Hotel room was not ready when I arrived.

So lunch at Two Fat Ladies at 118A Blythswood Street, swift, efficient service, the tables slightly too small for my liking, and an introduction into Cullen Skink – a delicious mix between a fish soup and stew, created apparently in the town of Cullen.

And dinner, hosted by the urbane and witty Andrew Kelly of  the Aye Write book festival, at the boisterously elegant Osterio Piero at 111 West Regent Street. The Anti-Pasta was light, imaginative and plentiful and  my steak was one of the finest I can remember on this side of the Atlantic.  I am not sure what wine Andrew ordered, but a good time was had by many for many hours and no headache in the morning — except for one couple who had to slip off early.

Unusual for London, an elegant and spacious BYO restaurant with superb Thai and Malaysian food that does not charge corkage. It’s only just opened and deserves big support. A multi-dish dinner for two, squid, chicken, tofu, beef — all freshly cooked — costs less than £30 and would be double that if you had to pay for drinks. They helpfully direct guests to a small wine shop around the corner from where I chose a £9.99 bottle of New Zealand Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc.

It’s called The Number One Cafe Restuarant, 1 Dalgarno Gardens, London, W10 5LL  44 (0) 20 968 0558.

Click here: Democracy Kills                                     Click here: Democracy Kills

Tiny Provesende village with its opulent, but compact church and ancient stake for burning people to death lies in mountains high above the Douro River and boasts Papas Zaida family restaurant where we lunched on pork, clams and salad.  Our amusing  and knowledgeable hosts were Paul Symington, whose family vineyards bring us Graham’s, Dow and Warre’s port; Miles Edlmann his viticulturist and Antonio Silvana, the caseiro or farm manager. We shared a bottle of highly-acclaimed Chryseia 2003  from the Douro — which incidentally is the oldest demarcated wine growing region in the world — 1756.

On an Oporto  sloping cobbled street in northern Portugal, opposite the Boys Or Us  gay bar lies the deliciously laid-back Atelier cafe, with its minimilist decor, saxophone beer pumps and bottles of Moet and Dom lying chilled on ice on the bar. The urbanely droll owner Miguel Rodrigues-Pereira assures me it is ’straight-friendly’ a place where people of all ages and sexual persuasion can go to relax, kiss and cuddle and show affections that are usually kept out of sight in this conservative, Catholic society. For lunch, I had fiejoada a transmontana — a stew with beans, pork, sausage, bacon and cabbage  washed down with fine coffee. Totally excellent

www.atelier-cafe.net

In a sleek and cavernous basement in the heart of Chelsea, lies a fun Japanese restaurant, where the chefs cook steaks, fish and vegetable in front of you while juggling spatulas and pepper pots, and occassionally dropping them to keep things interesting. The Asahi is chilled and expensive. The food excellent, fresh and inexpensive. Surf, turf, sushi and the rest for only £22 a head and youy can get in and out easily within an hour — or stay for three if its suits. 

Benihana, 77 King’s Road, London, SW3 4NX   www.benihana.co.uk

In my search for the best Indian restaurant in London, a visit to the Bombay Bicycle Club www.V8gourmet.com at 128 Holland Park Avenue. The great test as to whether it is better than Malabar Junction www.malabarjunction.com in Great Russel Street.  The Bicycle Club is light and busy,  the service on the cusp of haphazard. The food was good, but not excellent. The Murgh Masala too sweet and barely a spice to heat the roof of the mouth despite it being marked with two chilis. The Saag Gosht (lamb with spinach) was tender and superbly cooked. The pilau rice a touch too greasy. The vegetables, though, did rise above with very special Bhindi Sabzi (Okra) and the best dish by far was the Aloo Palak (baby spinach and potato), perfectly cooked with the potatoes slightly fried but not too heavy. Hirani beer — which I have not yet tried — was on the menu but not there. So we had to settle for the trustworthy Cobra.  The Bicycle Club is workmanlike quality, probably the best I’ve tried west of Hyde Park Corner, but for service, value, food and a culinary wow factor, it does not match Malabar Junction. 

Mel recommends Mikael Sigouin’s hand-crafted Californian called “Hapa Blanc” (a blend of white grenache and roussanne).”

Aparna recommends: black oystercatcher , boutique wines from SA
DIVINE

Any others to improve the list in Fortune, West Kensington? 

This is the deal. All you can eat in two hours, then you get thrown out. The food is freshly cooked in a special boiling hot-pot soup in the middle of the table that can only seat six. We had Alberta, triple A-Grade and snowflake beef; pig skin that looked like honeycomb; oysters from Washington State; fresh mushrooms, lettuce, san choi and bakchoi; beef, pork and fish balls; New Zealand muscles; fishmeet noodles; prawns;  dried fishskin; tea and Kokanee glacier ice beer on the table. Underneath the table we kept a bottle of (with apologies to Palling) Sumac Ridge 2006 Merlot Cabernet and Blasted Church Sauvingon Blanc poured into tea cups from under the table. The cost including tip was $25 a head and the place is at 8391 Alexandra Road, Richmond, BC,  Canada.