For many, many years, I have hoped to come across an old-style Chinese dinner/dance restaurant, a flavour of pre-Mao Shanghai with an edge and a whiff of mischief,  such as has been partly replicated in David Tang’s China Club in Hong Kong and Shanghai Blues in London.   But these excellent venues are for the well-heeled and up market. So it was with huge surprise and pleasure that I walked up the gilded staircase of Royal Dinner and Dance in Richmond, British Columbia — where the cover charge is $15 a head including food — not the best but at that price; the guests bring their own microphones and pay $7 to perform and song– this is a serious hobby; the dancers are meticulous, many quite brilliant and would stand their ground in Strictly Come Dancing; the music is live, the staff relaxed and efficient and (I was told) after a certain hour good-looking young men arrive to partner those women left alone at their tables.

www.royaldinnerdance.com