At Alex’s waterfront restaurant in Freetown, a man stood waistdeep in sea-water, eating fire and runnging the flames around his torso, while far out at sea lightening streaked across the night-sky signalling the coming rains. Alex’s is one o fthe finest restaurants in Sierra Leone, where you can get a lobster the size of your head for just over US$10. There’s no wine list, just Star beer, or Heinekin, and it seems the Sierra Leoneans don’t go in much for vegetables — a few strands appear by the side of my plate.   The lobster was plain, grilled and to die for.