My search for the finest Indian restaurant in London has ended. It is without a shadow of doubt the subtly spiced and magnificent Malabar Junction in Great Russell Street.  The setting is a high-ceilinged conservatory; the tables are well-spaced apart; the service is prompt with excellent  £10 (US$20) bottles of house wine sold in the name of General Bilimoria, whose enobled son, Karan, runs Cobra Beer; and the food leaves you smoothly satisfied, as only well-prepared South Indian food can. It re-energises you without leaving the slightest trace of being too full.