By chance, I was able to compare the Bombay Indian Brassiere in Plains Rd, Nottingham to Quilon’s in Buckingham Gate, London. Bombay is wedged between Chinese takeaways and shopfronts to let, but inside the atmosphere is discreetly upmarket. With the staff decked out in  flowing Mughal gowns, you could suddenly be walking into the Imperial Hotel in Delhi.  Quilon’s is the south Indian cuisine of choice for ministers and royalty. But which is the better restaurant – a tough one. I’d pick neither for a special date. When it comes to good food for honest travellers, I’d opt for the Bombay because it serves real Popadoms. Quilon cuts them up fancy-like the size of crisps. Bombay, probably catering to more northern England tastes, uses creamier yoghurts that take longer to settle.  The best Indian food used to be served by my very excellent and ebullient friend once Deputy High Commissioner to Britain. Alas, he was posted elsewhere — and the Star of Bengal in Leiston, Suffolk, is now closed down. God knows why, it was delicious.   

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